From hardworking massage therapy rugs to riding tights offering the ultimate in functional style, Horseware has an extensive range of quality products you can trust. Here we showcase
The ultimate all-season turnout rug, the Rambo Duo comes with a detachable liner and a detachable hood so that you can alter the warmth depending on the temperature. This best-selling turnout is now available in a brand new colour – burgundy with duck egg and black.
The outer material is a 1,000-dernier ballistic nylon which is waterproof, breathable, tough and durable. The rug has 100g of warm, heat-retaining thermobonded fibrefill, and a smooth, shine-enhancing anti-static and anti-bacterial polyester lining.
The 300g removable liner also has anti-static and anti-bacterial properties, and stays securely in place due to its liner loop system. A Surefit neck design with a V-front closure ensure the horse has freedom of movement to graze.
Other key features are leg arches, reflective safety strips, a wipe clean tail cord, 100g detachable hood and three secure cross surcingles.
Available in sizes 5’6 to 7’3
Priced at £359.95
Sportz-Vibe ZX Rug
Designed and created by the team who brought you Ice Vibe, Sportz-Vibe ZX is a massage therapy rug for horses. Comfortable, lightweight and portable, this rug is ideal as a warm up or recovery rug as it helps to warm up muscles before work and ease soreness and stiffness afterwards.
Using the latest wireless technology, it allows for a single remote to wirelessly control the integrated massage panels.
Using Sportz-Vibe ZX before exercise can help reduce the risk of injury as increasing blood flow to muscles, tendons and ligaments helps to make them more elastic. It can also help manage every day wear and tear, and help your horse to recover more quickly after hard work.
Sportz-Vibe’s massage action is gentle enough that it won’t over-work your horses’ muscles, but will effectively reduce muscle tension and the removable massage panels mean you can target a specific area.
Massage therapy is one of the oldest known methods of therapy, and is renowned for its ability to promote healing. Massage can help to reduce pain, improve blood supply to tissue, and reduce inflammation in horses that are suffering from long-term muscular back problems. By encouraging the lymph system to move, massage helps to drain inflammation and stimulate repair to damaged tissue.
Available in sizes 5’3 – 7’3
Priced at £561.95
Rambo Ionic Stable Sheet
The inner fabric of the Rambo Ionic Stable sheet is printed with a powdered form of tourmaline. This naturally occurring crystal releases negative ions, which in turn work to strengthen, stimulate and support a horse’s circulatory and endocrine system, increasing blood flow to the brain, muscles and other key parts of the body.
Negative ion therapy not only increases the level of oxygen in the muscles, but also helps to clear toxins from the body. Rambo Ionic technology also restores the pH balance, reduces blood pressure and helps to remove toxins from the body.
Not only can Rambo Ionic technology be used for horses but it can also help humans.
The fabric of the blanket is highly wicking and durable, so it can be used while traveling and in the stable as well as before and after exercise to promote the well-being of the horse.
Available in sizes: 3’9 – 7’3
Priced at £135.95 – 163.95
Horseware Riding Tights
Tried, tested and loved! The Horseware Riding tights are lightweight and breathable, with anti-bacterial and wicking fabric for perfect comfort for riding. These state-of-the-art, multi-functional riding tights include cool mesh side panels as well as micro-fibre knee and inside leg patches for added durability. The streamline design includes side pockets to fit a mobile phone, a smooth self-fabric waist for comfort and reflective logo for improved visibility.
These riding tights are functional, yet stylish and comfortable and are a great choice for hacking, schooling and everyday riding. Available in the brand new limited edition galaxy print, these tights are a must for your wardrobe!
Colours: Limited edition Galaxy print, black and charcoal
Discover the complete range at www.horseware.com
To keep your training on track and ensure you're riding on the bit correctly, take a look at our bridle advice from Emile and the team at Albion Saddlemakers.Read More
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Need some new transport for your horse? Looking for some advice on buying a secondhand trailer? We can help!
If a new trailer isn’t an option, buying secondhand can prove more affordable.
There are plenty of used trailers for sale and you’re sure to find something for your budget, but before you part with your cash, whether you’re buying privately or through a dealer, when you go to view any potential purchase, run through our handy checklist:
What to look for in a secondhand horse trailer
1 First impressions count - does it look clean, tidy and does it fit the description in the ad?
2 All new trailers are security marked and given a unique serial number (usually on the manufacturer’s plate), so check this is genuine.
3 Look for signs of leaking in the roof and check that any ventilation grills or windows are easy to use.
4 Lift any floor matting to check for rot or cracks, and bear in mind aluminium flooring is stronger and lasts longer than wood.
5 Lift any matting on the ramp and check for rot and damage, paying attention to the hinges for signs of wear and tear, too. Ensure it’s easy to lift.
6 Raise and lower the trailer using the jockey wheel, and check that both the electric connection and the trailer’s breakaway cable are in good condition.
7 Test the handbrake and, ideally, ask the seller to hitch the trailer up for a test tow.
8 Once you’re hitched up, check all the lights work, including the indicators, brakes and internal lights.
9 All tyres, including the spare, need to have a good amount of tread (a minimum of 1.6mm – though more than 3mm is ideal). Any uneven wear could signal suspension problems with the trailer.
10. On purchase Ask for a signed receipt that includes the seller’s address.
The best way to cope with whatever the winter throws at you when riding your horse is to invest in the right gear to keep you warm and dry.Read More
Owning a horse that’s to be ridden requires you to have horse tack. Here we run through the key items including, the bridle, saddle and more.Read More
Your riding hat is the most important piece of equestrian kit you’ll buy so, if yours is damaged or you’re in the market for a new one use our helpful buyer’s guide to choose the right riding helmet.
Riding hat safety standards
When you’re deciding on a new hat, first and foremost consider what activities you do with your horse.
If you compete you’ll need to check the rules of each governing body (e.g. British Eventing or British Showjumping) to ensure that the hat you want to buy is allowed.
In addition you must be up to date on hat standards. Here’s what’s
EN1384 1996 / BSEN 1384 1997/ BSEN1384 2012 (with or without Kitemark mark)
This range of standards can still be worn for hacking and hunting but as of 2016, most riding bodies no longer allow you to compete wearing this standard of hat.
VG1 (with or without Kitemark or IC Mark)
Developed by Vertical Group 1, who test and certify hats around Europe, this testing specification is based on the EN1384, but with additional requirements and testing procedures to bring it up to a level similar to PAS015.
PAS015: 2011 (with or without Kitemark mark or IC Mark)
This stands for Product Approval Specification (PAS) and was developed by the British Standards Institute (BSI).
This standard was revised in 2011 to include testing at an increased drop height and several other amendments to improve the performance of this standard.
This standard was developed in America by the Snell Institute.
It’s a higher performance standard which includes all aspects of the American Society for testing and Materials (ASTM) and PAS 015 but with the addition of testing with a sharper horseshoe anvil (to replicate a horse kick or impact with a sharp surface).
It’s also been tested for higher impacts and with an additional hemispherical anvil to represent an uneven but not a sharp surface such as a fence or tree.
Ensure your riding hat fits
Comfort and fit are essential and, as different brands offer varying styles and fittings, it’s vital to use a qualified hat fitter to help you find a hat that suits your head.
After all, only a properly fitted riding hat will provide you with the maximum level of protection in the event of a fall.
Your hat should fit your head snugly with the front sitting no more than about 11/2in or two fingers above your eyebrows.
If your hat can be easily dislodged when the chinstrap is fastened, it’s too big. It’s also important to note that there’s no guarantee a second hand hat comes damage free so always buy new.
With a huge choice of rugs available it can be pretty daunting choosing the right one for your horse.Read More
Horse rug jargon can be confusing, but fear not! We're on hand to help you out.
If you're confused and struggle to know your denier from your taped seams, our easy-to-understand jargon buster will help you understand all those commonly used rug terms you’ll come across when you’re choosing a winter horse rug.
Rip-stop - This is the fabric’s ability to contain rips and tears. It doesn’t mean your rug wont’ rip but the thread pattern runs in two directions that helps prevent a rip from spreading once it starts.
Ballistic nylon - Similar to rip-stop, ballistic nylon fabric is very strong, durable and more resistant to tearing.
Denier - This tells you how durable the rug is likely to be.
The higher the denier, the tougher and heavier the fabric. For example, 1200 denier and above is very strong. 600 denier is everyday strength.
Waterproof - This refers to the outer material’s ability to stop water passing through the run and on to your horse.
The outer fabric is treated to be waterproof and this will diminish with use, but with correct cleaning and re-proofing you rug will keep its waterproof properties.
Breathable - This is the rug’s ability to allow sweat to wick away, passing through the fabric to the outside, to keep your horse dry and comfortable.
Taped seams - When two pieces of material are sewn together the needle leaves holes in the fabric which allow water to seep in.
Taping seams is when a waterproof tape is applied and sealed to ensure the seam is watertight.
Filling - This is usually referred to in grams. The higher the gram of fill, the warmer the rug will be.
Standard neck - The neck of the rug stops at your horse’s withers, leaving his neck uncovered.
High neck - The neck extend beyond the withers, but doesn’t cover all of your horse’s neck.
Combo style - This style of rug has an integral neck cover that cannot be removed.
Detachable neck - This rug comes with (or sometimes has to be bought separately) a neck cover that can be removed, giving you the versatility of having two rugs in one.
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Buying a saddle isn't easy - the choice of saddles for horses is huge and it can be quite confusing too.
So, before you buy a new saddle take a bit of time to consider exactly what it is you want.
Ultimately it won’t be until you actually ride in the saddle that you’ll know whether it’s the one, but here we have some useful advice that should put you on the right path towards your perfect saddle.
Before you continue we strongly recommend that you set your budget now, then stick to it - it’s so easy to get carried away in the moment and end up spending far more than you want to.
Budget decided, you then need to decide what type of saddle you’d like. Here's a run through of what's available.
General purpose saddles
General purpose are designed so you can do most disciplines in them from hacking to jumping.
Most leisure riders will go for this option, you only need one saddle, but if you compete regularly you may be better looking at a discipline specific saddle to give you the support and security you need.
As the name suggests these are designed for dressage and flatwork.
The saddle flap is longer and straighter encouraging you to ride with a long leg position and the seat tends to be deeper to help you maintain a correct position.
There’s the option of having large fixed knee blocks through to smaller moveable blocks so you can find the most comfortable position for you.
To allow you to have a closer leg contact the girth straps are long and you use a short girth to remove any bulk under your leg so there are no buckles under your leg.
These are more forward cut so you can ride with shorter stirrups.
They’ll normally have knee and thigh blocks are positioned to help you stay secure and supported when you’re jumping.
Often they have a flatter seat allowing you a little more freedom if you’re riding cross-country.
These are designed to complement your horse’s conformation. They tend to be straight cut and basic in design so they allow total freedom of movement and show your horse off at his best.
Leather or synthetic saddles?
The next step is to decide what material you want your saddle to be made of, leather or synthetic.
Leather saddles: These would be most people’s first choice.
You can’t really beat the look, feel and smell of leather.
It may take a little more looking after, but many would say it’s worth it.
Traditionally most English saddles are made in Walsall - the town has long been the home of the English saddle manufacturing industry and is famous for being one of the only places in the world to have the expertise and skills to produce the very best handmade English saddles.
Synthetic saddles: These have improved massively in recent years making them much more desirable – in fact, some have become so good that they can easily be mistaken as leather.
What’s more, there are a number of benefits to synthetic saddles - the biggest being the price.
They are considerably cheaper than leather saddles and so if you’re on a budget they’re definitely worth a look. In addition, they tend to be lighter and much easier to clean.
A fairly new addition to some saddles is the option to alter the gullet width of your saddle, a great idea if you own a young horse as you can have your saddle altered as he matures.
Flair saddle panels
These air panels are extremely adjustable – this is a system of four air bags, which replaces flocking.
There are two air bags at the front and two at the rear. You can have flair air bags that provide a soft, flexible and event bearing surface.
Flair can be fitted to all conventional saddles and each individual air bag can be adjusted allowing you to add or remove air to give a customise fit for you and your horse.
This is done via two valves that are fitted under the skirt of the saddle.
Flair gives your saddle a constant flexible layer of air that’s great at absorbing shock allowing your horse to move more naturally as the muscles of his back and shoulder aren’t restricted.
Cair saddle panels
These are another type of air filled panel that are found in the range of saddles.
The Cair Cushion System replaces the traditional filling in your saddle with air.
There are two independently sealed air cushions within each saddle panel – the air in the panels can’t be adjusted.
The concept behind this system is the air within the panels constantly adapts to your horse’s working muscles allowing your weight to be more evenly spread across the saddle, virtually eliminating pressure points so your horse is more comfortable.
Traditional saddle flocking
Traditionally saddle panels are flocked with wool and this is still the most common choice today.
Your saddle is a shock absorber between you and your horse and wool is used as flocking because it’s a natural fibre that breathes and maintains its elasticity.
Also, your saddler can add or take flocking out of the panels to alter the fit of your saddle if your horse changes shape.
There are a number of types of wool used as flocking but a popular choice is Jacob wool - it has good recovery properties and remains soft helping to keep your horse comfortable.
A flocked saddle still needs regular maintenance, over time and with use wool becomes hard and lumpy – regular checks by a qualified saddler will help to keep your saddle in good condition.
Got a question about saddles?
Send us your question using the form below and we'll put it to the experts for you!
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A well-fitting rug is a must, not just for your horse's comfort, but for safety too.
A rug that fits correctly should cover your horse's body well. There should be no tightness, or it will rub your horse's shoulders and withers.
Also, a rug that's too big may slip causing discomfort, and can be dangerous.
If you're not sure what you should be checking, follow our five simple points to ensure your horse is comfortable and safe.
Does he have freedom to move?
The rug should be roomy enough to do the front fastenings up without putting pressure on your horse's chest.
Once fastened, you should be able to easily slide your hand inside the rug, down the side of his shoulder and around his chest.
Is it positioned well?
The rug should sit approximately 2in to 4in in front of your horse's withers, so it doesn't cause any pressure or rubbing.
It should also reach to the top of his tail.
Is it the right depth?
Take a step back and see how deep the rug is.
It should come down your horse's sides far enough so that you can't see his belly.
If the rug isn't deep enough it'll look a bit like a miniskirt, exposing some of his tummy to the elements.
Do the surcingles fit?
These need to be adjusted so you can comfortable fit your hand between the strap and your horse's belly.
Too loose and he could get a leg caught when he rolls, too tight and they may cause discomfort by pulling the rug down over his withers.
Does the neck cover fit?
Check the neck cover is long enough so it offers protection from the wind and rain especially when your horse has his head down while grazing.
Also check the neck cover is deep enough, if it's too tight it will rub his mane.
Do the leg straps need adjusting?
Not all rugs have them, some will have just a fillet string.
Careful adjustment is needed so your horse can move freely, but so they're tight enough that there's no danger of him getting caught in them when he rolls.
Loop one leg strap around his back leg and fasten it to the 'D' rung on the same side.
Repeat on the other side, passing the second leg strap through the first so they're linked before fastening.
The straps should be adjusted to allow a hands' width between your horse's thigh and the strap.
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If you are debating whether your horse requires a rug or not, follow this checklist to decide what is right for him.
1. How often you intend to ride
If you only ride once a week and your horse isn’t clipped, there's no real reason to rug him up unless he’s a poor doer.
Instead you'll have to get used to grooming the mud off on a Saturday morning.
2. Your horse’s lifestyle
Is your horse out all the time or stabled? Horses and ponies wintered out may need extra protection from the driving rain and therefore may need rugging.
Unclipped stabled horses may not require rugging.
Clipping and the type of clip will also influence your decision on rugging.
Native ponies with a small bib clip may not need extra protection and warmth although a thoroughbred who is fully clipped will.
4. Your horse's breed
Horse type and breed may also influence your decision to rug.
Thinner-skinned horses with lighter coats such as thoroughbreds usually feeling the cold more than a Welsh Mountain Pony or Irish Cob.
5. The weather
Horses and ponies cope very well in the cold but wet and windy conditions are more challenging so consider the weather on a daily basis and remember there’s no need to put on the heavyweight if it is 12°C and sunny!
6. Rug thickness
Along with the decision on whether to rug or not is what type and thickness of rug to use. If you’re trying to keep your horse clean over the winter, opt for a lightweight rug.
For poor doers that really feel the cold go for thicker rugs and remember what your Mum told you about layers!