Answer

By Your Horse

Master saddler Andrew Reilly advises…
A reputable saddler should take both the horse and rider’s details before fitting
a saddle and will give you an expert assessment of which type of saddle will suit.
If you decide to go it alone, look for balance in the saddle once it is in place on your horse’s back – it should be pleasing to the eye, with the cantle visibly higher than the pommel in most cases (usually1.5 inches or so).

There should be sufficient clearance over the withers at all times, especially if the horse jumps. This could be quite a modest gap or as much as three inches (the saddle arch should never come into contact with the withers when the rider stands in their stirrups).

Tree width varies from narrow to very wide. The optimum width is usually the one that matches the contour of your horse’s profile (over the wither and shoulders), but this is open to interpretation. Some prefer to allow for a roomier fit.
Most people worry about their saddle being too long for their horse’s back, however this is rarely the case, especially if the saddle is correctly balanced for the rider. It’s not a good idea to have a saddle that’s too small, as this can result in undue pressure on the horse’s back.

There are a variety of girthing designs with the most common being point-straps, then V-type girthing (where the third girth strap is fitted in a V-shape behind where your thigh would fall), and multiple girth straps. During a saddle check, it’s important to check the straps and stitching are safe, and the girth can be done up properly.

The gullet channel is the gap on the underside of the saddle that divides the stuffed panel area lengthwise. The gap should be sufficiently generous to give adequate clearance over the spinal processes from the withers to the end of the saddle’s contact area. This is most relevant in an angular Thoroughbred, and less so in a flatter-backed cob.